Gimme That Fish, Just Gimme That Fish

For my inaugural blog, I tossed around a few ideas on what to discuss, but ultimately decided on sharing my undying love of island fish. I just can’t get enough of any particular species (and I am in a position to see and eat many different species mind you).

The Nabeta is a deep water parrotfish usually kept out of the commercial markets - fishermen keep them and share them with their friends! The succulent, white fish is ono (delicious).

Most people can eat the usual suspects at any restaurant: Mahimahi, Ono, Ahi, and Opakapaka. I, however, am privy to more obscure species such as Nabeta, a prized local deep sea parrot fish usually only shared among friends. That’s a great steamed fish as it has moist, succulent white flesh.

Rainbow Runner or Kamano the Hawaiian salmon sneaks in occasionally. It has a robust flavor that I’ve cured many times to make an in-house Gravalax. I have served whole crispy fried Taape, which is an invasive Sea Perch introduced from Australia. It can be a little bit boney, but it’s tasty.

Kaku, the Barracuda doesn’t come around much to my kitchen these days. I think the fishermen are afraid of it carrying ciguatera and that no one would buy it, but I have had deep water Kaku which I trust completely. I’ve had it grilled and it is excellent and firm with a full flavor profile. But man the teeth are insane! They look like canine incisors jutting out of the jaw. I think the one fish that really sticks out in recent memory is the Hoggy, which is a deep sea Trigger fish, similar to our state fish the Humuhumukunukuapuaa, only it’s black.

Clockwise from the top: Hawaiian fish Opakapaka, Nabeta, and Lai, all caught off Maui's shores for Chef James McDonald of Pacific'o, I'o, and The Feast at Lele.

I was given just a Hoggy by a fisherman and I served it to my friend and celebrity chef Beverly Gannon and 7 other ladies as a “Mystery Amuse Bouche.”

I challenged them all to eat and ponder and I would solicit their guesses at the end of the meal. Hoggy is what I would term the “Poor Man’s Hapu’upuu” or Sea Bass. It has a slightly firm white flesh that steams up superbly. Coated in a fresh cilantro pan sauce made from the bones, it was Richter, or off the charts good.

None of the ladies did guess. I thought it was a great treat and I am so happy to have been able to share it with a friend and renowned chef. I suppose I could go on and on, but will end here with this note; when you have the opportunity to experience an unknown island fish, don’t be afraid to give it a go and get your eat on!

About the Author

Chef James McDonald is one of Maui's most passionate pioneers of the Farm to Table dining movement. Chef/Owner for Lahaina's pacific'O, I'o, and the gourmet beachside luau Feast at Lele, Chef James also owns the organic O'o Farm in Kula and 'aina, the gourmet market at Honua Kai Resort. He urges everyone to "Get your eat on!" Even though he has lived on Maui for decades, he has never forgotten his Philly roots... or the Philadelphia area pro teams. Go Philly!