Colleen’s

Colleen’s is an upcountry favorite for comforting meals any time of day or night. Big portions and generally well-prepared classics are served in a clean, high-ceilinged, open, noisy joint.

The breakfast omelets are reasonable and tasty at $8.50, and the eggs Benedict come in several different styles — from ham, bacon, lox, veggie, crab, mahi mahi, and ono — all ono (good). The tofu vegetable wrap is a favorite, as is the prosciutto tapas plate. Add a latte (very good) and you’re all set for the day.

At lunch, you can’t go wrong with a big salad topped with the mahi mahi or ono. The roasted eggplant sandwich with pesto, sun-dried tomato, carrots and melted muenster cheese is a winning combination of sweet, salty, and sumptuous ingredients. It’s served on thick, toasted slices of whole wheat bread. A slice of pizza can be had immediately — the huge, doughy affairs weighed down with gourmet toppings are a meal unto themselves. Or if you’re really hungry, get the beef burger (Maui Cattle Company beef, hormone free) and add fries and a pint of beer, all for $10.95.

At night the restaurant keeps the lights low and puts out votive candles and bluesy jazz. The wild mushroom ravioli is good, as is the creamy, comforting penne with vodka sauce and chicken. You might also try the seared ahi or the New York strip steak. The wine and beer list is short but decent. They make their own bread daily, and the espresso is excellent.

The waitresses (we’ve yet to see a waiter) tend to follow the owner’s lead when it comes to service: socializing comes first, followed by efficiency. It’s a place for North Shore denizens to see and be seen; if you’re hip to the surfing scene, you might recognize world champions among those filling the booths.

This is a great alternative to Paia if you want to stray a little off the beaten path but still hang with the upcountry crowd. Right next door is Studio Maui, a yoga center and the site of many classes, workshops, and events to sustain your spiritual side.

Address: 810 Haiku Rd., Haiku, Upcountry
Location: Haiku Cannery

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Hours: Daily 6am-9pm
Parking: Lot
Phone: 808-575-9211
Website: www.colleensinhaiku.com