Umalu

The poolside restaurant at the Hyatt is above average hotel cuisine at average (read: exorbitant) Ka’anapali hotel prices. The wide-ranging menu, however, is likely to have something for even the pickiest of eaters, and we think vegetarians will be particularly happy with the varied and tasty preparations.

Appetizers are sized big enough to share or use as an entrée. We especially like the Snake River Farm Kobe sliders. The American Kobe beef is used to create a tray of three burgers topped with rich gorgonzola, caramelized sweet Maui onions, and a delicious aioli. With a poi (taro) bun, this is a really decadent, tender, sweet burger. Another good choice is the large platter of ahi nachos. Taro chips and sweet potato chips line the bottom, topped with a very good, balanced ahi poke, goat cheese, and guacamole made from edamame beans. The soft textures of the guacamole and the cheese meet the firmer fish, and contrast with the crisp chips. We like the unusual chips for the nachos.

Sandwiches and pizzas are available, as well as several really generous dinner-sized salads. The ingredients are fresh and local, and there is some care put into the recipes and the execution. We actually find ourselves fantasizing, on occasion, about the Korean beef bulgogi sandwich. Slices of tender and sweetly spicy marinated rib eye steak are piled onto a toasted ciabatta roll along with salty ribbons of miso-dressed cabbage slaw. Sour, salty, sweet, earthy and pungent? Check. Served with a small dish of suitably fiery kim chee, it’s a resort version of Korean street food, and we give it a messy thumbs up.

Service is fine, but harried when busy. The pools at the Hyatt are spectacular. If we wanted to have lunch in Ka’anapali, we would likely choose ‘Umalu for its choice of indoor or outdoor seating, pretty views, and relatively good value for the resort area.

Address: 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Ka’anapali, West Maui
Location: Hyatt Regency, right on the beach walk

Meals: Lunch, Dinner
Hours: Daily 11am – 9:30pm
Parking: Valet
Phone: 808-661-1234