This ninety-year-old general store and bakery may look like it’s been boarded up or condemned, but Komoda’s isn’t closed permanently … just sold out for the day. If the weathered storefront is open, there’s probably a line. Get here early (before 10 a.m.) for delicious malasadas, the Portuguese donut rolled in sugar. Malasadas tend to be oilier than regular donuts and are served in paper bags to absorb the extra greasiness. They’re best when piping hot, straight out of the wok or fry pan. If your arrival coincides with the baker’s and fresh, hot malasadas are on hand, get a half dozen plain and eat them on the spot. Otherwise, try those filled with sweet guava (some say too sweet) or red adzuki bean paste (yum). You can also get macadamia-nut-covered stick donuts (glazed donuts with a stick stuck in them, so your fingers don’t get too sticky), decent cream puffs (the pastry shells are exquisite, the custard-y cream just okay), and fluffy butter rolls.
Komoda’s donuts and cream puffs have won an enthusiastic following as much for their flavor as for the nostalgia of their environment. This is a glance backward in time to how Maui used to be, before its population exploded and big box stores overwhelmed small mom and pops like this one. It’s humble and dusty in the corners, but sweet and quirky. We’ve peeked into the kitchen and been reassured to see everything is squeaky clean and made by hand — the same way it’s been done for decades.
If you’re a donut fan, this is worth the trip up to Makawao and the pastries generally still taste good the following morning. If you order ahead, they won’t run out of whatever you’re interested in. Note: closed on Wednesdays, which somehow is when we get motivated to visit.
Address: 3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, Upcountry
Location: Just down from the corner of Makawao and Baldwin, the building looks closed up
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Snacks & Treats
Hours: M-Tu and Th-F 7am-5pm; Sa 7am-2pm